A
black and yellow Bajaj, 150cc, Indian auto-rickshaw, stood looking for
all the world like a gigantic bumble-bee, amidst the rural English
countryside secreted in the hamlet of Elmstead Market - on the borders
of Essex and Suffolk. The
Great British summer sun glinted off its lovingly polished paintwork
reflecting particularly English grass, verdant by days of sunshine and
rain, and stroking the Bajaj’s South Asian wheels with considered
affection. Condescendingly English bees wove their pollen laden ways in and out of the vehicle’s open structure, oblivious to its anomaly.
Tiny
spiders, unaware of the surreality of their situation, spun their
delicate webs hoping to catch English flies in the Indian-ess of the
rickshaw’s interior. On
a wooden post nearby a solo majestic magpie preened itself, one crow
eye on its onyx and ivory feathers, the other mesmerised by a small
shaft of light sparkling off the Bajaj’s exterior chromium.
A
centaury before, in waning Edwardian England, Elmstead Market had stood
on the main thoroughfare from the ancient Roman town of Camulodunum
(Colchester), to the, then, fashionable coastal town of Clacton-on-sea. The
eager gentry had frequently traversed intervening miles with high
expectations of sun and sand, beach huts and bathing machines. Yet
over the years few shops now remained in Elmstead Market, and those
that continued to reside stand jumbled along the modernised main road. An obligatory local pub overlooks the rustic-ness of a greensward with its cluster of aged and ancient houses.
On
these idyllic days the lush border landscape aches for John Constable’s
return - such is its quintessential Englishness. White and overly
fluffy cumulus clouds scud as only cumulus clouds can scud, while
beneath them - an intrusion of former Empire, a poignant token of
post-colonial responsibility.
A
momentary glance through my Ford Fiesta Zetec’s windscreen brought an
apparent incongruity to my sight, my amazement and momentary disbelief. I
doubted my sight and my senses and instantly constructed all manner of
reasoned explanations as to why I could not be seeing a singular Indian
vehicle standing in an exemplary English village.
I
turned my sleek new vehicle around in the road and re-drove those few
yards in near heart-stopping apprehension, only to have my original
sighting re-affirmed. I sat, motionless, staring through my side window at a sight I could only have imagined in my most ludicrous and bizarre dreams.
As if it was a dream’s residue the essence of the Indian Bajaj seeped into my consciousness, stirring memories of India, begging me to recall past journeying and eccentric sojourns. Recollections of Goa
and labyrinthine excursions from Candolim to Panaji came unbidden as
did memories of dusty Chennai with its crowded streets between Anna
Nagar and the Thyagaraja Nagar (T Nagar) - where the tailors stitch
their livelihoods. A
soporific flood of reminiscences sought to overwhelm my senses as dream
and reality became blurred - I imagined hearing rasping hawkers call
and emaciated Brahma bulls low. My
senses assailed, I cognized the disturbed street dust along with the
acrid essence of borneol camphor, and ever sweet smell of jasmine
flowers.
I reposed in my own vehicle transfixed and transported spiritually to the Indian realm. My
consciousness awash with vistas of that grand Asian subcontinent as my
subconscious mind continued piloting the Cartesian machine.
Kipling,
Gandhi and my own dear father spun as symbolic wraiths drifting in and
out of focus, blending into the exotica of my imaginings, subsumed into
the beckoning daydream and lost to the world of reason. An
enchantment bewitched me, an elvish glamour sought to unseat my
understanding as my mind danced a crazed dance among temples and rivers,
statues and hazy coromandel beaches with cooling maritime breezes. Transposed and transported I became at one with my imaginings, subsumed into the opiate dream of conjured recollection.
Silken
saris gracefully floated before me, maidens in fine cloth and cottons
smiled beguiling smiles, third eye marks punctuating their foreheads as a
fitting accolade to their sublime beauty. Enraptured,
my senses floated to tunes of sitar, veena, flute and tabla, my ears
straining to catch the delicacy of lilt and profundity of melody. Classical ragas caught and transcended my soul each new melody and rhythm uplifting my being to ever newer heights.
And
what colours there were - bright, dazzling hues of be-saried ladies,
golden yellows and vibrant pinks, stunning blues and oranges, a
veritable kaleidoscope of colours clamouring to lay themselves before my
sight. The
ever present sun shone, reflected, refracted, ricocheting from chromium
here and a golden bangle there bringing a feast of hues and shades to
constantly delight my sight.
A
sound, just beyond my reason, began to assert itself into my labouring
mind - a tap, tap, and tapping, rapping itself into my consciousness, as
if someone, or something, was trying to attract my attention. I was loath to emerge from my dream, reluctant to re-engage with the world as it is. What
passes for reality, but is in essence but a construct of agreeing
minds, began to reassert itself - inviting me to rejoin this mundane
existence.
The sound grew louder as my senses began, slowly, to adjust to my surroundings. The
tap, tap, tapping was still in evidence as gradually my eyes began to
open, and there, standing on the bonnet of my vehicle stood a stupendous
kingfisher, his coat resplendent with the greens and blues of his
sensuous feathers. Tap,
the kingfisher’s head darted to the bonnet, tap again, as he struck the
still moving fish against the grey paintwork of my Ford, a further tap
to bring the stillness of death to the freshly caught aquatic denizen,
slight smears of fresh water blood evident as the master angler launched
himself, and his recently caught prey, into the brightness of the
English summer’s day.
A
final glance, and mental salutations to the Bajaj as I ignited my
automobile’s engine, turned the car back onto the highway and drove away
from Elmstead Market, the Bajaj and memories of India.
As I sit here, several thousand miles from England, I often think about meeting with the anomaly which was the Indian auto-rickshaw in the depths of the English countryside. It was strange, but then I have since learnt that life is frequently strange if you allow it to be……..