Coffee is Love (Ti Ammo)

We had travelled the long road back to the State of Penang, Malaysia, for Christmas. The sleek red Ford Fiesta weathered the vagaries of the tedious North/South Highway, it's constant driving rain and it's appallingly showy crashes of thunder. We arrived safely at Bukit Mertajam, despite all that Thor could do to prevent it, and encamped at the family home.

The very next day, severely grumbling tums enticed us to escape semi-detached isolation, and head for Bukit Mertajam town, for breakfast. Having eventually parked (no mean feat), we traversed the crowded market, it's slippery vegetable discards path, the load and intense sellers of roasted pork and deep fried bread, once more to return to our favourite coffee emporium - Ah Hup's Kedah kopi (coffee shop).

Two years on, and Ah Hup sported a brand new haircut. As time as sauntered in that small backwater town, Ah Hup has become increasingly famous in the vicinity for his winning smile, his easy manner and his unique Three Taste coffee (San Wei). The ever benign Ah Hup, a third generation coffee roaster, recognised us immediately and presented us with yet another cup of delectable coffee, served to our collapsible stainless steel table within his tiny cafe. It was the fifth cup of coffee between my wife and I. It was called D’ammo. I thought he said Ti Ammo (Italian for love), a short lived confusion ensued with me imagining a non-existent romantic streak in that Penang town. It was soothed over by the coffee's seductive cream and chocolate sauce. The previous four coffees had been of the 'stretched' or 'Tarik, variety. Coffees Malaysia is increasingly known for.

I am fond of talking about his coffee, so apparently is Ah Hup. As he was making a cup he explained how he roasts the coffee beans himself, careful of the Indonesian and local blends, pouring love into the mix and experimenting with smoothness and taste, to the sheer delight of Bukit Mertajam. Having sent his son to Penang Island, to learn mechanical techniques in coffee decoration, Ah Hup found that it was just as proficient to use the traditional method of 'stretching' the coffee between two stainless steel mugs, allowing air to enter the fluid, and creating his 'cappuccino' froth by that method. He was scornful of the pressurised espresso machines, foreign branded coffee houses use.

Having tasted yet more of Ah Hup’s coffee, it is no wonder that we return, but an even greater wonder that Ah Hup recognises us. Wonder I had, until I caught sight of the photo Ah Hup’s son had taken of us, together, two years ago, now proudly displayed on his white tiled wall. As we drank, coffee after delicious coffee other, local, patrons looked between me and the wall containing the photograph. A debate ensued, was it me, or wasn't it me. I had no idea of the conclusion. I was tempted to ask, but declined.

As we imbibed Ah Hup’s creative caffeine, savouring each gulp and secretly wishing never to leave, his son told us one very surprising thing about his father. Ah Hup, now so well renown for his superb coffee blending, doyen of all appertaining to coffee in Bukit Mertajam, does not drink coffee at all. The son’s statement was left hanging. I could think of no response, but to drink another mouthful and just be glad that Ah Hup’s undoubted skills included the manufacture of untasted coffee. 

Ah Hup also produces, and sells, Kuay Chap (a wide flat rice noodle), from a stall, near his cafe. The Kuay Chap begins its existence as a thin rice flour batter, spread onto a warmed wok, much like a pancake or crepe. It cooks with a thin layer of pork fat and resembles a very large crepe when cooked. The cooked crepe is spread on a stainless steel surface, folded and allowed to cool. The cooled Kuay Chap is torn into bite-sized pieces, then sun-dried. This wide, flat noodle is the basic ingredient for the flavoursome Kuay Chap soup noodle. This delicious dish is made from a whole duck and its innards, broiled with pig's tongue, pig intestines, many whole bulbs of garlic and litres of dark soy sauce mixed with water. The whole is served in small bowls with fried garlic, the cooked intestines and cut, boiled, chicken's egg.

Within Ah Hup's home stand many antique machines. He had recently renovated an eighty year old ais kachang (ice) scrapper, and was in the process of renovating an eighty-plus-year-old coffee grinder, intending to use the latter in his home production of unique roasted coffee. After the Grand Tour, Ah Hup took us to see his friend, who continues to roast commercially.

Mr Yeap Thay Oh, was born in China and migrated to Malaysia with his family at the age of eight,. He glady showed us around his small coffee factory, while Ah Hup explained that his family had owned similar factories over the generations, but had gradually sold each off. His friend, Mr Yeap produces 'Cap Bungalow Glory' (morning glory) brand coffee (kopi campuran) of Penang of State, from the Kampung (village) Berapit.

Slowly, the story of coffee and Malaysia was unravelling for me. Previously I had written about coffee in Ipoh, Perak. Bukit Mertajam was a fresh insight for me. But I have the feeling that there is yet more to Malaysia’s coffee story……